Chemical Peel and At-Home Acid Products (Glycolic, Salicylic, TCA — pH Matters More Than Percentage, Barrier Damage, Photosensitivity) — safety profile
Moderate riskAt-home chemical exfoliation products have proliferated from professional-only peels into mass-market toners, serums, and masks containing alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs: glycolic, lactic, mandelic), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs: salicylic), and even medium-depth peel agents (TCA at 10-20%, previously physician-only).
What is this product?
At-home chemical exfoliation products have proliferated from professional-only peels into mass-market toners, serums, and masks containing alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs: glycolic, lactic, mandelic), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs: salicylic), and even medium-depth peel agents (TCA at 10-20%, previously physician-only). The critical safety factor is not percentage alone but free acid value (FAV), determined by concentration AND pH — a 10% glycolic acid product at pH 3.0 delivers approximately 6.3% free acid, while the same 10% at pH 3.8 delivers approximately 2.6% free acid. Products marketed as '30% AHA' at low pH can cause chemical burns equivalent to clinical peels. The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel set safety parameters: glycolic acid safe at concentrations up to 10% with pH >=3.5 in daily-use products (leave-on), up to 30% at pH >=3.0 in salon professional peels, and up to 70% at pH >=3.0 in physician-only peels. FDA received 100+ adverse event reports (2015-2022) for at-home acid products, including chemical burns, permanent scarring, and hyperpigmentation. AHAs increase UV sensitivity by 18% at 4% concentration (FDA 2005 photoprotection study), mandating sunscreen use during AHA treatment periods. TCA at concentrations above 20% causes controlled dermal coagulation — at-home TCA peels at 15-30% (sold on Amazon) lack professional oversight for depth control, creating scarring and infection risk.
What's in it
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Active Exfoliant
Medium Depth Peel Agent
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